Dear River

Dear Mississippi River,
This is where you're allowed to be.

http://media.nola.com/hurricane_impact/photo/hurricane-protection-system-graphic-8def260a8445ece9.jpg

Any questions?  Please refer to the Army Corps of Engineers.

Sincerely,
People

Ocean science questions ANSWERED! post 9 - Why is the sea salty?

Q:  Why is the ocean salty? And what are the benefits of its saltiness? (Emma, Paul)

A:  Yayyyy!  I love this question – it seems so simple, and then there are all of these nuances that become important and it’s not a simple story.  So here goes:  The ocean is salty because it slowly accumulated salts over the course of its formation, and with the formation of the hydrologic cycle of the earth.  Nowadays, there is a tidy balance between th continuous onslaught of salts being delivered from rivers, and the output (export or sequestration) of those materials.  On land, rocks are weathered through chemical and mechanical weathering that dislodges minerals from the rocks and mobilizes them into runoff waters such as rain, rivulets, groundwater and rivers and streams.  This weathered material can take the form of dissolved salts or suspended particles (sediment).   Regardless, a huge amount of sediment and dissolved minerals are delivered to the ocean at the mouths of rivers.  There are other sources of salt material, as well:  dust mobilized from the great deserts and deposited in the ocean, hydrothermal vents and underwater volcanic eruptions, for example.  It seemed counter-intuitive to me that this bit of salt could make a difference in the enormous ocean,  but we’ve used this idea of salts input and outputs we see today to explain how salty must have formed on early earth.  Some of the ocean’s salts – especially chlorine – are extremely soluble, and extremely unlikely to be removed from the water column once they’ve entered.  The water in the ocean does not mix and turn over very quickly, so the salt eventually accumulated, but it took time.  The commonly held belief now is that salts built up in the ocean over a very long time period, enough to make the water salty, and now the ocean is in a relative steady state with respect to salinity (the latter is not disputed, and there is a huge amount of evidence that shows that salinity has been stable for millions, maybe billions of years).  When ocean water evaporates, the salts are left behind.  Back to present day ocean:  there is a net balance of salt in and salt out, while water continues to flow in and evaporate out, and we experience the salty ancient ocean.   Some of the salts are taken out of the water by organisms (especially calcium carbonate formation), by volcanic activity on the seafloor, and by the subduction of tectonic plates, but these are all slow processes. 

The salinity of the ocean ranges from brackish in the estuaries and some bays, with a salinity of less than 1, to high salinities in a place like the Mediterranean Sea with salinities upwards of 38 (parts per thousand).  Most of the ocean ranges from between 32 – 36.  The units used to describe salinity are interesting, because we don’t use a measure of actual salt per volume water anymore.  We now use the conductivity of the water, which indicates the level of salts, and the measure is a unitless ratio, so sometimes we use “PSU” to denote practical salinity units, but it’s not necessary to use units and sometimes it’s frowned upon. 

The ocean being salty is important, because we wouldn’t have life as we know it without it!  This is because of the hydrologic cycle.  If we didn’t have our hydrologic cycle, we wouldn’t be here.  We rely on the cycle for our water, and everything we eat depends on it too.  The ocean and the land are inextricably connected by the water and biogeochemical cycles of the planet, and we need them all to function. 

Ocean science questions ANSWERED!: post 8 - Deepwater Horizon and oil spills

      Q:  What's the truth about oil spills & the dispersant chemicals used to "clean" them up? (several people asked about this)

A:  The truth is similar to Fukushima.  The Deepwater Horizon blowout is one of the worst environmental disasters to take place in the USA – and the biggest oil spill in US waters.  There is a lot of hype though too.  Its horrible and jarring to see images of the extent of the oil – and it was massive – from DWH.  One of the things is:  oil floats.  So most of the material from the spill was cruising for the surface, and still being less dense than water it gets blown to shore very easily.  SO.  The dispersant was a good idea for saving the large, charismatic, and commercially important species, because it binds to the oil particles and makes them sink.  There are far fewer organisms living on the bottom of the deep sea than the coastal zone.  If there were dispersants used in the coastal zones (and shallow areas), that would probably be disastrous because there is so much life there.  But in the open water and deeper sea, closer to the wellhead, it’s a decent option because it gets that oil out of the most productive part of the ocean – the surface layers.  No matter what, the oil is impacting some organisms – it’s a matter of how much and where.  There has been a lot of talk about the dispersants, and I still don’t know the answer – I haven’t been shown anything to prove to me that those chemicals aren’t horribly toxic.  But the issue seems to be that we are continuing to approve new drilling permits for deep sea operations, and BP and the companies responsible are not doing their share to take responsibility for the impact the spill had on the ecosystem.  I’m really interested in studying the impacts to the benthos of the oil spill and dispersants – my guess (and what I’ve read so far) is that the benthic community was drastically altered after the oil spill, although we don’t have conclusive proof yet that its directly because of the oil and dispersants.  So the truth is, more needs to be done to find out the real environmental costs of the oil spill.  

Ocean science questions ANSWERED! post 7 - Fukushima radiation

      Q:  What's the truth about Fukushima radiation landing on US shores?

A:  The truth is that radiation has not, as far as we know, gotten to the west coast of the US, but there are imminent plans to test the waters.  There is still radiation in the water from every atomic bomb that’s ever been tested – the stuff stays around a long time – but that doesn’t mean there’s radiation poisoning everything.  So it’s a myth that there is a health problem right now for US-dwellers, but this is always a moving target and may be revised as new information becomes available.  What is NOT a myth is that the Fukushima disaster was unparalleled in its disastrous effects.  The good folks at Southern Fried Science have done a nice corralling of info for us (also see the Deep Sea News pieces – very good):  http://www.southernfriedscience.com/?p=16363.  

Ocean science questions ANSWERED! post 6 - Salps and pteropods! Gelatinous zooplankton!

Q:  What is the overall niche of salps and pteropods? Are there any theories to predict where you get a food web with lots of gelatinous little zooplankton (I'm not counting medusae) instead of crustaceans?  (Neil)

A:  Salps have a particular niche, because there are only a few species groups and they tend to feed in a similar fashion to one another – they make large aggregates and feed and respire and excrete and die in a big cluster.  Pteropods on the other hand are varied, and diverse – from thecosome pteropods (the little “sea snails” with shells made so famous by ocean acidification research) to gymnothecates with no shell and soft bodies, they are varied in form, feeding and life cycle.  I guess there might be a similar niche, in the sense that shelled-pteropods make a mucous net to stick prey onto and then consume the house, and salps do something similar.  They both filter a large amount of water, although salps probably more because they are bigger in size. 

Theories to predict where you’d get a food web with lots of LITTLE gelatinous zooplankton!  Yes.  Making a theory up on the spot, I think there could be more LITTLE gelatinous zooplankton in the highly productive upwelling region food chains.  I’m saying that because we usually see those areas with a simplified food chain, with forage fish feeding on zooplankton, and large animals feeding on the fish – sort of skipping over the large jellies and some of the larger macrozooplankton.  Of course, systems are always more complicated than the model, but that could be a first crack at my theory.  Also, shelled pteropods have been shown to be a significant part of salmon’s diets (but only in some years).  So that’s not much to build a theory on, either.  Still a long way to go, in my view, for a unified theory on zooplankton ecology – especially gelatinous ones.  

Update:  i just read that Oikopleura (larvaceans) have mucous nets with such tiny openings that they can snare bacteria in there.  !  This seems mind-boggling to me, but what it means is that maybe Oikopleura are playing a bigger role in the microbial loop than we know at the moment.  If that's the case, perhaps there's a truncated food web going on when Oikopleura are present in large enough numbers.
Update #2:  it seems that some salps swarm and aggregate when other's (meso+macrozoop) don't, usually because of nutrient limitation.  This might also be a suggestion of a niche for salps:  if they can filter and feed on bacteria and the microbial loop, they might be able to subsist without phytoplankton if there is enough dissolved organic matter/dissolved organic carbon that's floating around in the water.  Such a scenario could happen if there were a phyto bloom, and then nutrients were limited and there wasn't a complete drawdown of nutrients by zooplankton, then phytos die off and there's just a slow accumulation of DOC for a period of months.  However, this doesn't really suggest a "niche" to me, per se, because it seems like salps could/would just as easily swarm in an environment replete with nutrients and things to eat.  There is probably a competitive advantage to being able to swoop in and eat when others can't, but i'm not sure that constitutes a niche.
Update #3:  i think this exploitation of resources by salps could be tied to disturbance - if there's disturbance and enough DOC is in the water, salps can ride in.  

Ocean science questions ANSWERED!: post 5 - Gulf of Mexico

      Q:  How has past and current geology, historic ocean currents and other factors influenced the diversity of the GOM? (Matthew)

       A:     First, lets discuss the geology of the Gulf of Mexico.  The Gulf is considered a passive margin, because its not at the site of an active fault or tectonically active rift, subduction zone or volcanic feature.  It is also dominated by the enormous Mississippi River flowing into it.  The continental shelf varies in length around the Gulf – it extends the farthest around Florida (the Florida Keys are all on the shelf).  The basin itself is also relatively shallow, compared to deep ocean basins.  These features all affect the type of sediment and substrate found at the bottom of the Gulf of Mexico – mostly reefs (around Florida) and soft-bottom substrate.  Also, along the northern Gulf continental slope (that’s the steep part between the shelf and the basin, usually about 200 – 3000 m water depth), there are extensive salt domes and carbon-rich deposits embedded in the slope, shelf and continental rise.  This is where all the oil and gas drilling and mining occurs.  Oil and gas deposits suggest that parts of the Gulf of Mexico were filled with carbon-rich deposits (such as plants and animals in abundance living, dying, and becoming deposited on the substrate and subsequently buried).  Such a situation could have occurred with low stands of the sea, where sea level was much lower than it is now (up to 200 m lower), and rivers emptied directly onto the continental shelf.  In such a low stand of the sea, organic deposits could build up and eventually become fossilized or sedimented.  When sea level rose again, the shelf would be covered with water and marine sedimentation would begin again, and thus we see layers of carbon rich deposits and marine sediments. 

      The canyons of the slope and rise are built by turbidity currents.  Turbidity currents are gravity flows of sediment, mobilized with water and remain in motion because of the turbidity.  Turbidity currents move because the sediment is much more dense than water, and so the turbidity of a dense material creates a flow that accumulates as it “runs”, and turbidity currents can blast through the topography at extraordinary speeds.  Turbidity currents leave “turbidites” behind in their wake, or sediments from turbidity currents.  These turbidites resemble riverine delta regions in terms of deposition grain size – the large grains settle out first, then silts and clays last.  Turbidity currents and turbidites are important features of the GoM. 

      As for biodiversity in the Gulf of Mexico, there are connections with the geology and physical oceanography of the basin, as these are often the driving factors behind diversity.  However, also playing a role in biological production are the availability of nutrients and appropriate habitats for each trophic level.  The benthic organisms are the most diverse within the marine species, so if there are good habitats and growth conditions for benthics then there will be high diversity. For this reason, some have chosen to measure substrate diversity as a proxy for biodiversity of the system.  In reality, there are more factors than this contributing, especially including nutrients and recruitment ability of each population.  However, the Gulf plays host to some of the most diverse benthic ecosystems on the planet:  coral reefs.  Reef systems tend to have the most diversity of any marine ecosystem type, the “tropical rainforest” of the sea.  Since the Gulf of Mexico does have some coral reefs, especially in the shelf area off Florida, it can be considered to have relatively high diversity.  Also, as the Gulf of Mexico is NOT a big deep basin with unproductive oceanic gyres in it, the whole of the basin is relatively productive.  This doesn’t necessarily mean its more diverse, but more productivity is a good starting point for being able to have high diversity.  There are smaller mesoscale eddies that transport plankton, nutrients and fish larvae around the basin, along with currents, but there are no upwelling or downwelling features that impact biological productivity on a large scale.  The “global conveyor belt” of thermohaline circulation is such that the Gulf receives surface (warmer, less nutrients) water from the Atlantic, but probably none of the North Atlantic Deep Water or nutrient and oxygen-rich deep waters.  Biological production is limited to the nutrients that are provided via the rivers, Aeolian input and from marine sediments.

Ocean science questions ANSWERED!: post 4 - Submarine groundwater discharge

      

      Q: I have often wondered: if there is "groundwater" beneath the earth's surface, there must also be groundwater beneath the ocean floor too. Is it true? How deep does it go? Is it all salt water? How salty? (Marshall)

A:  Yes, its true!  Well, to a certain point.  When you say, “ocean floor”, think of the shoreline.  That’s where the groundwater is.  There’s a very new, very exciting line of study of groundwater discharge.  Its fascinating, and its possible that there is a significant amount of water exchange between the fresh and saltwater bodies that we really didn’t know about before.  It doesn’t go all that deep – maybe 100 m or so.  And it is certainly not all saltwater – using radon as a tracer, people have shown that there are significant amounts of freshwater seeping out.  However, saltwater can also seep into the freshwater, and there are freshwater aquifers that are often an important source of drinking water for coastal communities, that are becoming contaminated by saltwater intrusions.  This is exacerbated by draining the aquifers:  if you’re pulling water out, laws of physics indicate that new water will fill in, and saltwater may be more readily available, especially at the ocean’s shoreline.  So the water may be saline, fresh, or brackish (usually salt water is defined as having above 20 parts per thousand of salt, whereas freshwater has zero).  Also, in the deep ocean at the hydrothermal vents and spreading centers (the Mid-Ocean Ridges) there is significant water exchange into the rocks and sediment.  This is all saltwater, though.  

Ocean science questions ANSWERED!: post 3 - Tides

          I wanted a little exercise to help me study for my comprehensive exams in my PhD program in Marine Science.  So i asked you all to write to me with your burning ocean science question, and i will answer right away, in practice for the exam.  Here are some of the q's and a's.

     Q:  When low tides happen, is the "middle" of the ocean higher? How can it not 'fall' back toward the shores?

A:  I love this question – I had the same question in my mind when trying to grapple with the idea of tides!  Tides are the product of gravity, and the force of gravity exerted by the moon, and the sun.  And for each of these heavenly bodies, there are two forces to consider:  gravitational force (gravity) and centrifugal force.  For gravitational force, the water on earth is pulled toward the sun, toward the moon.  For centrifugal force, the water on earth is pulled away from the sun, away from the moon.  So now envision the Earth, orbiting around the sun, and picture a lens around the sphere of the earth.  Imagine the earth at 3 o’clock, with the sun in the center, and at 9 o’clock – the gravitational force pulls the water to opposite sides of the earth at each of those times.  Now the gravitational force is stronger with the sun (the moon is closer to earth than the sun, but the sun is MUCH bigger), but both forces play a role in each other’s gravitational forces and the tides.  SO. You have the earth orbiting the sun.  And you have the moon orbiting the earth.  And you have the earth spinning on its axis each day, as well as the annual orbit of the sun.   So there’s a LOT of motion going on, and this is why the tides are so complicated at each given place! 

To answer your question – yes!  When its low tide on Muir Beach, the “middle” of the ocean is higher – out in the deep Pacific.  However, thanks to our gravity field on earth, and the fact that the ocean basins are so enormous, the basins essentially absorb that bulge.  But this also creates high tide somewhere else – with the Muir Beach example, lets say it’ll be high tide at Fukushima, maybe, at the same time.   Essentially, the water moves like this because of the amazing gravitational fields of the earth, sun and moon, and because of centrifugal forces.  

Ocean science questions ANSWERED! post 2 - Ocean Acidification

      I wanted a little exercise to help me study for my comprehensive exams in my PhD program in Marine Science.  So i asked you all to write to me with your burning ocean science question, and i will answer right away, in practice for the exam.  Here are some of the q's and a's.

    Q:   What's the deal with ocean acidification?  

      (original question: How has human-caused greenhouse gas build-up affected the acidification of the seas--or is it vice-versa? or separate events convergent? - Qayyum)

A:  Ocean acidification is the process whereby the ocean becomes more acidic with increasing carbon dioxide (CO2) in the atmosphere.  Ocean acidification is an impact to the carbon system, or carbon cycle.  CO2 is the most prevalent greenhouse gas; that is, it’s the one found in highest concentrations in the atmosphere as compared to the others.  The ocean is the largest sink (sequestration site) of CO2, for any entity in continual contact with the atmosphere; the ocean captures and stores about 1/3 of the human-produced carbon dioxide today. This is due to phytoplankton taking CO2 in and eventually sinking (in one form or another) to the bottom and becoming sediment.  There is this magnificent cycle of carbon going on – CO2 exchanges with seawater due to diffusion and photosynthesis via phytoplankton (algae).  In order to understand the details, you need to understand some chemistry.  First lets discuss pH:  pH is a measure of hydrogen ions.  Hydrogen ions are sort of unusual, because they are positively charged and “want” to bond with other things.  The activity of the hydrogen ions in the water is pH, or acidity.  More hydrogen, more acidity.  Now lets get back to CO2.  Once in the seawater, CO2 goes through several different reactions interacting with water (H2O), and in each reaction hydrogen ions are produced.  So on a very basic level, more CO2 coming into the water will mean more acidity.  Its complicated by the remainder of the carbon cycle and the sequestration of carbon mentioned earlier.  In order for pH to stay the same, with increased CO2 in the water, there would need to be increased sequestration (input = output).  Sequestration is accomplished by plants and animals incorporating the CO2 into their bodies in the form of calcium carbonate.  The plants/animals die, and the calcium carbonate sinks and becomes sediment, sequestering that carbon in the sediment.  SO, one problem is that some of the organisms that create calcium carbonate structures in their bodies have a harder time doing that when there’s more CO2 in the water.  Furthermore, there is less deposition of calcium carbonate to the bottom, if there is more CO2 in the water.  This is all to say that there are several feedback loops that make more CO2 in the water feedback on itself and fuel more and more acidity.  There is much more we need to know about this process, and how increased acidity might affect organisms, AND the process of changing pH over the long term is VERY slow.  It makes the fact that we are seeing a change in pH at all in the ocean very troubling, and urgent in terms of understanding more about what’s going on.  

Ocean science questions ANSWERED! post 1 - Temperature rising

I wanted a little exercise to help me study for my comprehensive exams in my PhD program in Marine Science.  So i asked you all to write to me with your burning ocean science question, and i will answer right away, in practice for the exam.  Here are some of the q's and a's.

Q:  How does the rise in global temperatures affect the carbon-carrying capacity of the oceans? Can you quantify this? (Bruce)

               

A: Yes!  This is an important component of ocean acidification.  OA is the process whereby the ocean becomes more acidic with increasing carbon dioxide (CO2) in the atmosphere.  Ocean acidification is an impact to the carbon system, or carbon cycle.  There is no “carrying capacity” of carbon in the ocean per se; that is, it is unknown how much carbon the ocean could store or sequester.  The ocean is the largest sink (sequestration site) of CO2, for any entity in continual contact with the atmosphere; the ocean captures and stores about 1/3 of the human-produced carbon dioxide today. This is due to phytoplankton taking CO2 in and eventually sinking (in one form or another) to the bottom and becoming sediment.  The way temperature works into all of this is twofold.  First, CO2 is a greenhouse gas.  This means that the more CO2 there is the atmosphere, the more solar radiation will be trapped in the atmosphere, and the warmer the temperature will get at the surface of the Earth.  So it’s a tidy little feedback loop.  Second, temperature affects the solubility of gases (the amount of the gas that can be present in the water).  Higher temperature means less gas solubility.  This isn’t so much a “problem” for absorbing CO2, and transporting to the sediment, since higher temps will mean less CO2 in the water, but it is a problem for absorbing oxygen!  Higher temperatures mean that over the long term, less oxygen-rich waters will be formed, and oxygen rich waters are one of the VERY important components of fueling phytoplankton growth in the most productive parts of the ocean. 

               So to answer your question, yes, rising temperature definitely impacts the ability of the ocean to sequester carbon dioxide.  And yes, we can measure it!  Doney et al (2009) provide an excellent review of the carbon cycle in the ocean, and how rising CO2 levels can be measured.  Measuring global temperature is continually occurring, and is also accomplished by measuring levels of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere.  

Radio silence doesn't mean nothing happening - notes on fear and death

Well, its been busy.  I guess i say that a lot.  I guess we all say that a lot.  Is that why i haven't posted for months?  Partly.  And in part because there was some of this happening:
cold snap
garden tending
number crunching
make dinner
clean the carpet
register the car
sit
talk to a friend
listen to NPR
watch the birds
jog on dirt paths
watch the sunset light up the heavens and the swamp over the pearl river on the I-10 bridge streaking orange and pink and magenta and yellow and how is this even possible
meeting new people
tending to each thing

And all the while there's always some thinking, thinking not-thinking, non-thinking (as Dogen says).  There were all these spiders in my house as the autumn arrived.  I started thinking (see?) about what is the fear?  Why is it that i am so deathly afraid of this thing?  And its only really *some* spiders - the daddy-long-legs, spindly ones don't bother me so much.  Even the small but hefty ones - if they're really tiny, i don't mind as much.  So why am i afraid of this one form of spider?

Its very clear in MY mind:  because they're HUGE!  They're FURRY!  They're horribly scary!  So i guess what doesn't compute then, is why isn't everyone scared of these things?  Why would i be afraid of something someone else has no response to?  What is fear, in general?  I mean i know something about what it does in the body (stimulation, activation, fight or flight), but i don't know why.  I've been thinking about it a lot.  I don't have a rational answer for why i'm afraid of (big, hairy) spiders.  But i do know that fear arises differently for each of us.  The only thing i could narrow most (all?) fear down to was that ever-present fear of death.  Maybe fear is basically about fear of death, in some way - not necessarily our own physical death, but the death or loss of anything:  an idea, a moment.

And then this Great Sadness settles into my field of vision, when i think about the real physicality of death.  A good friend of the sangha, Abbot Steve Stuckey, is actively dying in California right now.  He was diagnosed with stage IV (pancreatic?) cancer this autumn.  It was just after i left California that i found out.  I am still shocked - by the diagnosis, by the speed - one minute we're fine and living our life and the next minute we're preparing for our last months alive?  Yes, this is sometimes how it is.

Abbot Steve was one the first to farm at this special place

Even though we all know we're going to die, we live as though we're going to live into old age.  Shocking, and sad and unclear how i feel or how to express my sorrow when it arises.  These are the responses that have come up for me.  I feel sad that Steve will die soon.  I feel sad that Zen Center will lose its leader, teacher and friend.  I feel sad that friends of mine will lose their teacher.  And, i feel fear and sadness because Steve's diagnosis points to my own mortality.  I think of all the people i've known or been close to who have died (especially the ones who weren't over 80 years old).  John-Alex.  Dave.  Adam.  Michael.  Moira.  Frank.  This happens!  This is happening!  How do we function, in the midst of death and loss and grief?  Its overwhelming to think about sometimes.  And so we say the names of those who have died.  We remember them and memorialize them.  We celebrate our own life, and the time we did have with those who have died.  We give thanks and find gratitude for each moment, even if there is pain or suffering.  There is gratitude in being alive, and we can find this kernel when we look.  That seems to be the Most Important Thing.  So we grieve together, and celebrate together.  And i just want to say to Abbot Steve:  Thank you.  I love you.  I'm sorry.

Gasland 2 - coming soon to a backyard near you

What happens when you wake up to bad news?  What do we do when our backyard is suddenly next door to oil and gas development?  Is there anything we can do?  My friends are walking the route of the proposed Keystone XL pipeline, holding that question.  Josh Fox seems tireless, in his effort to connect with people and document what's happening regarding fracking around the USA, and now the world.  

I had the honor of attending a (FREE!) screening of Gasland 2, along with q+a with Josh Fox, Wilma Subra, and Al Armendiaz in New Orleans.  The screening was hosted by the Louisiana Environmental Action Network, at the amazing Pyritania Theater.  I felt exhilarated, being in the same room with these advocacy and awareness (through science!) heavyweights.  I felt abuzz with energy, and also i found myself humbled and overwhelmed with the knowledge that these three people have worked with such incredible dedication to investigate the truth of fracking, and to bring those truths to as many people as possible.  Also, i'd been wanting to ask Josh Fox if he knew my friend Sarajane - the both of them being from Pennsylvania, and they're both totally awesome.  I didn't get to ask that - but i did get a photo.

The film is a nice conclusion, a nice summary to the conclusion of each progressive-ideals path i've walked down recently.  The conclusion is that our democracy is broken.  Its not like this is new news; more like its just helpful to have one more group of people searching for truth come to this conclusion.  And i do find myself reinvigorated to organize around environmental issues and awareness in the Deep South.  Onward!

Insects and Hurricane Katrina

Its 8:15 pm.  I'm waiting for my dinner to finish cooking.  Savory bread pudding.  I made it because i finally made bread again!  But then the bread didn't turn out *quite* as tasty as i'd hoped, so i decided to cook it in a pot with other good things, and it'll all taste great.  Stomach grumbling in anticipation of dinner, and my toe grazes a wire underneath my desk.  FREAK OUT BECAUSE THERE'S AN ENORMOUS BUG ON ME!  No, upon investigation we learn:  it was just a wire.  Sigh.  My reflexes are...changing.  Every little tickle or sensation becomes a potential scenario for waving hands and swatting oneself uncontrollably.  Because if you don't investigate what is touching your foot, then sometimes you look down and there IS an enormous bug crawling up your leg.  The other day i put my shoes on and thought, "what did i put in my shoe?".  It was, of course, an enormous freaking cockroach.  So there's obsessive sensation-panic, and there's obsessive checking clothes, towels, furniture, bedspreads for any crawling/flying/spineless thing.  Becoming attuned to the tropics (er, well, subtropics).

This all might sound a bit overdramatic, but - there's no escape, and no one is immune.  Everyone has the gigantic cockroaches, in their house, every day.  Like my landlord said:  its not like there will be a time when you don't see them.  Just know when to worry.  When to worry is when you start seeing little ones:  then it means they're breeding inside; otherwise they're usually stray from the outside.  How do they get in, you wonder?  Because the house seems hermetically sealed, due to the crushing heat that happens every day.  They get in when you open the door for a moment.  They get in through the drains (shudder).  But i'm hoping to make peace with them, and find some balance of living with the insects, and but also willing them outside.  Unfortunately for them, i think this means killing them sometimes.  In the case of cockroaches, it does.  I'm not sure what people do, who won't kill cockroaches.  Just the thought of them running around all over my dishes and clothes and toothbrush - it just sends shivers down my spine.  Maybe i need to just buck the hell up, and deal with it - its just an insect!  its not even poisonous! - but for now, there is an extermination system in place, for when they're inside the house (note:  if i find one inside the house, and i can catch it, i do try to keep it alive and put it outside).

Another note on invertebrates:  i am continually amazed by the numbers and variety of insects and spiders i see and hear, here (here, here!).  So far, i've seen, in addition to the cockroaches: millipedes, 3 or 4 kinds of wasps, bumble bees, 3 or 4 kinds of butterflies, moths, hummingbird moths, cicadas, fire ants, flies, mosquitoes, 3 kinds of spiders, and beetles.  Mostly, there are bugs that i can't identify - especially the wasps and the beetles.  There are also lots of flying insects that i'm not sure of their ID.

In other news, i've been reading a non-fiction book about Hurricane Katrina - one survivor's account (and she relays stories from several of her friends) of being in the storm on the Gulf Coast, and the aftermath.  Its absolutely riveting.  I can't put it down - even with the mountains of schoolwork i have.  The book is:  Under Surge, Under Seige - by Ellis Anderson.  My landlord gave it to me to read; she's one of the friends who shows up in the book.  I want to know all the stories.  And now, visiting some of the places she (and other people in their storm stories) are talking about - the stories become all the more poignant and striking.  And, the stories are utterly heartbreaking.  So much loss.  How does one individual cope with so much loss?  How does a community cope?  Then, in with the loss is amazement and gratitude for people helping each other, people managing to survive despite the (very-stacked-against-them) odds.  One thing is very clear:  my hunch that Hurricane Katrina is a benchmark around these parts was spot on.  There is not a single person who hasn't been affected by the impact of the hurricane, and the aftermath.  Next up on my reading list is a book about Katrina in New Orleans:  1 Dead in the Attic.  Two things i've enjoyed so far in the book:  people saying that "Hurricane Camille killed more people in 2005 than in 1969" and Katrina was "The Great Equalizer".  The former refers to the previous worst hurricane in Gulf Coast recorded history - Camille.  People thought, "me/my house/this neighborhood survived Camille; it can't be worse than that", and so they stayed or didn't otherwise take necessary precaution, and it was WAY worse than that.  The Great Equalizer is that everyone was affected.  The richest man in Hancock County, disheveled and waiting in line to get a bag of ice.  The mayor, house demolished with nowhere to go.  Everyone, rich and poor, educated and not, privileged or not - everyone was the same to Katrina.

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IMG_0313.JPG, a photo by n_yoder on Flickr.

Back porch

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IMG_0311.JPG, a photo by n_yoder on Flickr.

New house kitchen, great room.

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IMG_0323.JPG, a photo by n_yoder on Flickr.

Hello! We're goats! (Also at my new house)

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IMG_0328.JPG, a photo by n_yoder on Flickr.

My new house!

Welcome to Mississippi. Would you like to buy a house/some land/a trailer?

Arrival in Mississippi

Creeping across the country, slowly if you're watching me from a bird's eye view, from the air.  Yet in my car, i'm hurtling through the air atop roads with bumps and turns and nuance, at top speed.  Sudden, and gradual.  Portland, Seattle, Boise, Moab, Albuquerque, Texas, Austin, New Orleans, Stennis Space Center, Bay St. Louis.  These are some of the names i encountered along the way - all with their own mystique, their own character, their own humidity.  I arrived in New Orleans late on a Thursday evening.  I could smell the hot, humid air.  The warmth and humidity engulfs me whenever i step out of the car, outdoors.  Sunset streaks the sky, cirrus clouds painting pink swaths above me and thunderheads gray, white boiling off in the distance ahead.  The highway approaching New Orleans is mostly surrounded by swamp and forest - raised highway, bordered by water and trees.  I see many, many birds (cormorants?), whom i can't readily identify, not flocking as such, but more like streaking across the sky like the clouds, one or two, every few seconds, so that in the end there are a lot.  They beckon me on, silently inviting me into this new place replete with birds and names unknown to me.  Other names crop up, intriguing and asking for investigation:  Atchafalaya, Ponchartrain.  What is there?  What are their secrets?  Who came before me?

As i travel around the Gulf Coast of Louisiana and Mississippi, one thing has become abundantly clear:  Hurricane Katrina changed the landscape:  social, ecological.  Katrina is a profound marker for this region.  Everyone has reference to Katrina, and people, buildings, communities are located around August 2005.  On the gulf coast, there are blocks standing empty - "if you know where to look, you'd know there used to be a building there", i'm told.  As it is, it looks like a rather peaceful lot.  But there's a big cement slab underneath the brush and ivy; telltale of the structure that used to sit on top.  Every community, every sector of town:  there is evidence of change, post-Katrina.  There are the shored up, stately houses, towering over everything on stilts.  Not that this region wasn't accustomed to storms; there are sections of towns where houses are required to be on stilts due to regular, shall we say routine, flooding.  But Katrina seems to have been a game-changer.  I had never visited New Orleans before last week.  As i exited off highway I-10, i saw the Superdome i'd heard so much about during Hurricane Katrina and the aftermath.  Now, the area around the Superdome is still, 8 years later, in somewhat of a shambles.  I phoned the friends i was trying to navigate to in the city.

"What street are you on?  What are the cross streets?", they asked.   I had no idea, and as i drove down a large, busy street - there were no street signs for many blocks.  Not on the thoroughfare street i was on, not on the side streets.  I thought at first it must be that the city has some unusual placement of signs that i didn't see, or that it was a sign of the city's impoverishment (which, i think, it is) - but then, when i had finally found my friends, they told me:  no, this was a remnant of Katrina.  Missing street signs, including an on-ramp to the highway, i found missing the next day; gaping potholes and road damage that still hasn't been repaired; condemned buildings and houses; these are all glimpses of the city struggling to get back on its feet after the storm.  There are many gorgeous dwellings and wonderful gardens in New Orleans.  And there are still many signs of destruction, too.  

The place i've arrived feels like the tropics.  Its still considered sub-tropical, but coming from San Francisco Bay area, and Seattle before that - its been a long time since i've been in hot, humid summer.  The air at night is thick and moist, and fireflies dance outside in the flowers.  Day and night, this place is teeming with life.  Butterflies, crickets, mosquitoes, cockroaches, flies, bees, wasps.  I've seen great egrets and cattle egrets and a sapsucker and raptors and turkey vultures and killdeer.  The cormorants continue to streak across the sky, every now and then.  And this, all within a span of a few days.  The roads remind me of the tropics, too.  When i was in Costa Rica (twenty years ago now, but still), everything was "se vende" - for sale.  Here, i see waves and waves of For Sale signs on fences and buildings; on everything.  For Sale!  For Sale by owner!   I'm not sure if its a remnant of Katrina, or an indicator of the region's economic slump, or some combination of factors, but everyone seems to be selling and not many people buying.  When i went looking for places to rent, i saw indicators of economic despair, as well.  "We'd be willing to sell the place, too, if you're interested", said one landlord, eager and hopeful.  "Oh, you'll be in school?  Do you think you could get my daughter a job?  She's a teacher", said another.  This was the first place i've rented an apartment or room that i can remember not having the landlords from each place asking for quick decisions, because of demand.  Weeks go by, and rentals are still open.  A colleague mentioned that now would be a good time to buy a place, and it may even be barely possible on our student stipends, but the problem is that the property isn't worth anything once you own it.  Its the reverse logic of investing in property.  People seem to be saying:  you invest in property here, if you really want to be here.  Not because you want to make money off of it.  New Orleans seems to be a bit different of a story, where there is the remaining devastation of Katrina, but also pockmarks of remodeled houses and lofts selling at better prices.  One thing is for certain:  the region has a dynamic, vibrant quality to it that draws people here, and rests in people's bones so that they don't want to leave.  

I have somehow wandered into a small sanctuary, to live in.  The place i settled on is a house, cool inside (but not cold), with gardens and goats and cats and flowers and acreage.  Its out in the country, at the edge of Mississippi state line.  There are horses and ranches and farms, and woods and rivers nearby.  Its so remarkably quiet.  Sure, i miss my view of City Hall all lit up for some occasion, i miss my view of the Bay Bridge and the BRIGHTER GREATER murals.  But here, there is no paved street outside my window.  There is moon, and mist, and insects buzzing.  There is the rustling of the tree's leaves.  Ginger grows at one end of the garden, and when i walk out onto the porch, i know i'm in the tropics again - transported instantly by that intoxicating scent.  

Wednesday:  first day of classes.  I have the feeling i'm a the foot of a mountain, or maybe i should say the edge of the swamp.  I can see the swamp, i can see how rich it is and how many stories and mysteries it must hold.  I want to know all of the stories, and be able to tell them properly, to sing the song of this place.  And i feel excited to be formally learning about the world oceans.  So the journey begins:  understanding the language of oceanography.  Dictionaries and translating and slowly building vocabulary to then venture into the swamp, and spend many days and nights learning and immersing.  There is work ahead, and our fearless guides have stood up before us and prepared lectures and staked their careers on imparting knowledge, know-how, humor and good will.  There is much to do.

San Francisco street art

San Francisco is chock full of incredible street art.  Have you seen some of it?  What have you enjoyed?  I've started a small photo catalogue of the things i've run into - excluding the "big" walls like Clarion Alley or Haight and Laguna murals (even though these sites ARE incredible).

Check out all of those photos by clicking here.

And, let me know what you're seeing.  

One of the reasons behind wanting to document street art is this idea that street art is often ephemeral - a piece is often only up temporarily, or may be something fleeting or mobile, like an art car.  So i wanted to document some of the things i see - with an intent to be able to visit the sites, but also to realize the impermanence of street art and the beauty in that.

Beautiful Dreams, 4 of 5

Beautiful Dreams, 4 of 5, a photo by n_yoder on Flickr.

SF Street Art, a set on Flickr