26 Sept 2006

Le Tour, Zagreb Interlude

Now in Zagreb, trying to learn how to say basic phrases and count to ten in Croatian. I will post about the Pyrenees trip and Barcelona soon.

Leaving Barcelona, the train was delayed, and i missed the first connection in the series of four trains that was to deliver me to Zagreb sunday morning. Trying to resolve the issue in Montpelier, the woman at the train station communicated through rough english and spanish that i would have to make a new reservation in Geneva. The scenery on the train journey through eastern France was absolutely gorgeous. Mountains and cliffs, forests and vineyards. I read Stephen Jay Gould essays and dreamed about what the next phase of my life and career might be.

Upon arrival in Geneva, i was surprised in my ignorance to learn that (obvious now that i think about it) Switzerland is not part of the EU, and they only take Swiss Francs for money. All the change offices were closed, so i managed to pay for some coffee with euros. I made a new reservation, this time leaving a bit later but a bit more direct to Zagreb, only now i was due in to Croatia in the late afternoon instead of the morning on sunday. No matter, i still had a new reservation.

As i boarded the train, i realized that the ticket agent had misunderstood me, and booked me in a sleeper car instead of a seat, a happy mistake since it meant i had a little bunk to sleep in more comfortably. Thankfully my bunk was on the bottom row (i'm still scared of sleeping on the top bunk) and as i sat back in my bed to read, i saw a flash of light outside. I looked up and there was a full display of fireworks proceeding, in perfect view, outside the train in the distance. As orange and golden balls of light exploded in streaks in the sky, i felt a great sense of peace and the conducter idled the engine such that the train slowed and i could see the show with ease. The rest of the trip to Zagreb went smoothly and without obstacle (although the border guards in Croatia adamantly questioned me about where i was going and why).

I landed into the lovely city of Zagreb, and have since been steadily eating and drinking my way through town. Sandra is such a gracious host, picking me up from the train station and patiently teaching me Croatian, listening to me stumble my way through pronunciation as i try to read the writing on the food cartons and billboards. Jessica was here for a couple of days as well, and we did a walking tour of the city which was really nice and gave good views of the city. Highlights of the eating and drinking include coffee at a street cafe listening to live cello-guitar duo and lunch at a macrobiotic cafe, Makro Nova. So far, so great!

More on this and the previous bits of the trip i've omitted, soon.

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